Windows
QUESTION
It’s very strange. The double-hung windows in my kitchen have
weights and chains, and up to now they have worked wonderfully. But now
the lower sashes, and some in the other rooms, won’t stay up.
I checked to see if
the weights are still there, and they are, and they have not been
touched all the time I have been in the house. Could I add little
weights to them so they will stay up properly? What else can I do?
ANSWER
Adding weights is a good idea, but the tolerance for the weights in
their pockets is quite close, so you would have to add a weight to the
top or bottom of the existing weight—not a practical thing.
But I think the
side stops are loose. So look at the side stop, the thin band of wood
about 2 inches wide and set against the jamb from the sill to the top
stop. It is usually nailed or, better, screwed to the jamb so it
snuggles up against the lower sash, making a fair air stop.
Make sure it is
snug against the lower sash, and be sure to check both stops, right and
left. If the stop is screwed on, you can tighten the screws. And
sometimes the stop is simply pushed against the lower sash, relying on
its tightness between sill and top stop to hold it in place. The
tightness of the stop against the sash will help keep it up.
Of course, this
should not happen, but it can. Finally, weather stripping the windows
with spring bronze weather stripping will tighten them and keep the
windows up.
*****
QUESTION
I have Anderson casement windows, circa 1970’s, the kind that open and
close like a door. A number of the handles are stripped, making the
windows hard to open and close. I was written off by the Anderson
people when I called to inquire. Where can I find replacements?
ANSWER
Written off by Anderson? That is very strange, because Anderson, like
any other reputable company, is not interested in getting a bad rep.
You may have talked to someone without authority or sense to do
anything, except turn you off.
You could try
calling the company and getting someone in authority. Or, dismantle one
handle, arm and all, and take it to Home Depot, where you may find a
substitute handle and arm that will fit. You may also find a
replacement at any Anderson dealer.
*****
Question
I suggested to a replacement window installer that the window should
be plumb (vertical) and level. He replied that it was not important.
Shouldn't windows of any sort be plumb and vertical?
Answer
Where does this installer come from? Of course windows and doors should
be plumb and level; if they aren't they might not work properly, and
can even rack (turn into parallelograms) which would be a disaster,
and they will also look weird, too. If the windows or doors are not
plumb, then you install shims. This will level the window or door.
*****
Question
I have two windows that will not stay up, I push up the top and
it comes down, or I raise the bottom and it falls down. The sides of
the windows have aluminum tubes, sort of half rounds. I can see the
tubes in the jambs, just above the top of the bottom sash. Is there
any way I might be able to fix the windows?
Answer
You windows are early ones (40 to 50 years old) that features springs
instead of weights. They were notoriously unreliable, usually because
the springs lost their tension. Fixing the springs may just be a matter
of rewinding them. Check the underside of each sash on each side. There
is usually a round opening with a T-shape end; pull this T-shape end
down with a pair of pliers and turn it clockwise; it may wind itself.
Try this with the other spring as well.
*****
Question
I am stripping and re-gluing my windows and filling it with Bondo.
Is that the right way to go?
Answer
Yes and no. It is the right way to go because you are saving a bit of
Americana in those old windows. Re-glazed, reglued and filled with epoxy,
they will last another 100 years. And more power to you, because the
work is very time consuming and would be very costly if done by a professional.
Instead of Bondo try Minwax, epoxy wood filler, designed to fill voids
in decayed wood.
*****
Question
I was in a house built in 1916, which in 1935 had a dormer raised
to hold six double hung windows 6-over 1 windows that are weight-loaded
with aluminum storm windows. Two of the six need to be replaced
the
entire window, not just the movable sash. The window people want to
put vinyl but a true replacement. The windows are weighed, and I would
like to keep the weights, too. Is this possible?
Answer
It sure is, and the window man should be able to do that for you. I
recommend calling Mayfair Windows and Doors and see it they have setup
(sash, frame and all) 6-1 window. They are sold through independent
lumber dealers. The sash is grooved to accommodate ropes or chains with
the weights.
*****
Question
My windows are double paned with aluminum frames. How can I prevent
water from condensing the frames?
Answer
For starters, reduce the moisture in the house. That's easier said
then done, but here's a trick that might work: Apply self-adhesive foam
weather-stripping to the frames. It will keep the moisture away from
the cold aluminum. If you cant find the weather stripping, glue wood
strips to the frame, and then paint or varnish them. They will keep
the water vapor away from the aluminum, and look better, as well.
*****
Question
I am putting in an internal window, that is, a window on an inside wall
between a room and a stairwell. How is it best done? Should I use double-glazed
windows for sound control? What is best for sound control?
Answer
Build two frames glazed with plate glass, 1/4 - to 3/8 inch think. Install
one each side of the opening. The thick glass and 2 1/2 inches of air
will give better protection against sound than a double-glazed window.
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